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3.)
With both seat platforms out of the car, this picture shows a couple of things.
First, you'll see that we have measured and drawn a line on the platform marked left
(upside down). Second, you'll notice that we have already bent a new lip up on the
platform marked right (upside down) and you can see how much lower it sits. We used a long
piece of metal as a straight edge and clamped it to the platform, then used a hammer to
bend the edge into the position needed for a proper fit. Do both the front and back edges
in this manner.
4.)
George checks the fit of the drivers side platform. George's motto is "measure twice,
cut once"! It's good advice to follow. Notice that the floor under the platform has
been cleaned and primed to prevent rust from setting in. Remember, this piece is a part of
the floor that gives the car strength, so under no circumstances should it be left out
completely!
5.)
After the platforms have been fitted, the bottom of them should also be cleaned
and primered. If you're not doing the job yourself, be sure to talk to the shop who is.
All it takes is for a floor pan plug to fall out and water can get in and eventually rust
out the floorboards.
6.)
George tacks in the drivers side platform. At this point, you can bolt in your
seat and "get the feel" of how you will fit. If you need to, you can move the
platform further back before doing the final welding.
7.)
The finished product. The seat platforms have been moved down almost 2",
giving a lot more head room and drastically improving steering wheel to leg clearance. I
know what your next question is. No, the fit of the carpet is not affected. The platforms
are covered by the rear seat area carpet and it will still fit perfectly. The best part is
that, once the carpet has been installed, no one will ever know it's been done. Unless
they sit in the car, that is!
